Goma Tsé Tsé town a symbol of slow recovery from war in the Pool

Goma Tsé Tsé railway station, which lies along the rail line linking the nation's capital, Brazzaville, to the port city of Pointe-Noire, is slow in springing back to life since militias fought for control of the area from 1998-2002. Despite a precarious peace, conditions in the area are far from favourable in attracting a massive population return to the Pool Department where Goma Tsé Tsé town is located. Goma Tsé Tsé is testimony to conditions in much of the Pool. The town was the scene of intense fighting during the four-year conflict. After undertakings by the protagonists - the government and the National Resistance Council (le Conseil national de la résistance) led by Ninja rebel Rev Frédéric Bitsangou, alias Pasteur Ntumi - to abide by the 17 March 2003 peace accords signed in regard to the Pool, some 14,000 people have returned to the district. This figure represents a little more than half the area’s population prior to the war. Much of Goma Tsé Tsé lies in ruins. Its public buildings, such as the headquarters of the subprefecture and private flats, are damaged. Damaged homes have turned to bush. The town's few streets that existed before the war are now narrow paths. Viewed from the air, Goma Tsé Tsé resembles an abandoned, overgrown garden. "Eighty percent of the town has been destroyed," Eugénie Ngouissani, the subprefect of the locality, said. "The town is being reborn with difficulty; but we need to help in one way or another so that the town can be made livable again." The need for rehabilitation is evident everywhere. Schools and housing need to be rebuilt. The ground has become increasingly sandy, making it difficult to find clay with which to rebuild homes. Health and Social Situation A French NGO, the Medical Aid Committee (le Comité d’aide médicale), has just rehabilitated Goma Tsé Tsé's Integrated Health Centre, which began services again in April 2004. One retired civil servant, Jean Jacques, said the centre's buildings now looked brand new, but the bigger problem was one of a lack of equipment and medical staff.

Eugénie Ngouissani, subprefect of Goma Tsé Tsé

"We sometimes even lack medicines for fevers," he said. "Like before the war, we lack just about everything: potable water and electricity. We drink infected river water. Often children get diarrhoea and we have to resort using plants to treat them." Similarly, the Congolese railway company, the Chemin de Fer Congo-Océan, has remodelled its offices and the area train station. There, the youth, especially ex-combatants who have renounced war, are waiting for one of the two daily trains that pass to sell their fruit and vegetables in Brazzaville. A small market adjoining the station can only hold 75 people. "This is a small market of fortune we set up just to sell cassava, our leading product," Denise, a trader, said. Small streams that make driving difficult, especially during the rainy season, rut the tiny roads that link Goma Tsé Tsé and Brazzaville. Elsewhere, almost all the schools near Goma Tsé Tsé have been affected by war. Before the war, the there were 22 primary schools and a junior secondary school for the 45 villages. Now, only half the schools have reopened their doors and teachers are in short supply. However, in Goma Tsé Tsé town all the primary schools have broken windows and this lack of basic infrastructure has delayed the start of classes, subprefect Ngouissani said. An association of people originally from the Pool living in Brazzaville, known as Mbongui du Pool, run by a member of the government, has recently rehabilitated some classrooms in two schools in Goma Tsé Tsé town. The association has also remodelled one of three buildings of the junior secondary school and two in a primary school.

Aerial view of Goma Tsé Tsé

"The junior secondary school started the 2004-2005 school year with four classrooms, as opposed to 12 before the war, and an administrative block. The principal, a supervisor, two secretaries, two full-time and two interim teachers comprised the staff for the 200 students in the first to fourth grades. Ordinary Level (O level) students have to travel to Brazzaville to take their exams. This situation disturbs us," a teacher at the college, who requested anonymity, said. "We want all children to remain here to do their O level exam, since they spend the entire school year here without difficulties." Created in 1973, the secondary school had, according to its principal Daniel Mitoudidi, more than 700 students before the war. There are three teachers for every 245 students, of whom 149 are boys and 96 girls. There is a shortage of teachers at the primary school. Gradual Return to Peace Peace is gradually returning to the town and the return of its residents, signals this trend. However, it is still possible to run into Ninja ex-fighters roaming the area with their guns. "Although they are still carrying their weapons, these ex-Ninjas have become very serious," Symplice, a Congolese government soldier, told IRIN. "We collaborate well with them. They even tap palm wine that we all drink together." While the ex-Ninjas have kept their dreadlocks to distinguish themselves from other town residents, they say the war is over and they no longer have use for their weapons. "When the time comes we will hand them over to our chief who, in turn, will give them to the national reintegration authorities," one ex-combatant said. According to Ngouissani, an atmosphere of trust has replaced the mistrust that existed up until the end of 2003.